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Dry-aged 28 days? I'm in. What I didn't do was ever make the connection, rewinding back through time like an Enya-video, from whence the steak came. Of course I know meat was cow but in the same way I know the globe is warming. Yes, it's true and it's horrible, but damn, doesn't the air feel nice going through your hair in a Mustang convertible out on that open road with the air conditioning blasting on high?
I had travelled up here—70 miles north of Manhattan to the Hudson Valley—to understand better my place in the process that turned a living thing into an eaten thing. Would I flagellate myself before this hoofed beast, fall to my knees among the manure and grass to beg forgiveness? I didn't see myself going in for pathetic gestures unless it's to save my marriage.
Might I apologize to the cow as, I suppose, a representative of all cows killed for Joshua David Stein through the journey of his life? To say I'm sorry to every carne asada taco, cheeseburger, or slab of brisket would be too unwieldy, after all.
But no one had invested in this cow species-wide pardoning power. Mostly I was there to see how I felt, confronted with the one-on-oneness of my meat habit. Oh, and also, who doesn't want to own pounds of grass-fed cow, knowing it lived as well as cows can live? Danny peered into a long pen, hemmed in on either side with weathered wooden slats. When he chooses his four or five head of cattle to be slaughtered per month, Danny drives them through the Green Mile into a waiting truck that will take them to be killed an hour and a half away at a small, family-run but USDA approved slaughterhouse.
Things are busy around here. But that day was not the last day for any animal and there was just a massive red Simmental-Angus mix lying down, like a living leather sofa. In another enclosure, a black Angus bull nosed at a salt lick. Danny walked us through the basics of his herd. There are two bulls—later to be made into ground beef—and a herd of breeders who, along with their children, are kept in an adjoining field.
At about six to eight months old, the children are separated from their mothers. The male cows are castrated at birth, turning them into steers, while the heifers are spared to breed another year. It's mighty loud.
We hung out at the gate, watching the cows watch us. Some were bathing, some were braying. One—a baldy with a red tag on her ear—seemed to know what's up. She stared at us from the front of the herd, her eyes rimmed red. Then she forced the other cows back away from the gate. He talked about how the cows live and what they eat a lot. They live solely on grass and on the hay kept under white plastic that flanks the dirt road into the fields like long marshmallows. Danny also talked about killing cows with such a matter-of-fact-ness it clears up some of my unease.
Because the act of killing is never spoken about at restaurants or grocery stores, one gets the feeling that slaughter is shameful. But Danny's easy approach to it is a tonic. The steer I eat will be driven up early that morning. The trip is only an hour or so. A few hours after he wakes up for the last time, cow 38 will die. He'll be terrified, for sure, Danny explained. There was a slaughterhouse that had a tiny window on the kill floor, just a few feet wide.
And wouldn't you know it the cows tried to jump right through it! Well , I thought, what percentage among us won't die in abject terror? Though cows might lose in method of execution, surely they know not the terror of contemplating extinction from this Earth as we do?
As the sun is getting low, the cows have grown bored with us. And I've grown bored with them too. There's no wellspring of feelings or pangs of guilt. I met my meat, cow-face to man-face and instead of turning me off to meat, it made me feel better. When I eat this ribeye, it won't have materialized from a menu, as if called into being by the utterance. It'll be like meeting an old friend, and eating him. As we turned to leave, I contemplated hollering out to the herd, "I'm sorry!
By signing up to the VICE newsletter you agree to receive electronic communications from VICE that may sometimes include advertisements or sponsored content. Tens of thousands of animals are packed into crowded lots called feedlots to fatten up quickly, as a final step before being processed.
This is what produces the poor "good fat" to "bad fat" ratio in most beef products on the supermarket and grocery shelves. In addition, the poor conditions that the animals live in during their time in close-quarter feedlots, are crowded, filthy, stinking, boxed-in areas, with open sewers and only choking air to breathe.
Since we don't need to grow corn or grain, we don't use herbicides or pesticides. We don't want unhealthy, fatty cows, so we don't inject hormones and we don't have the need to use antibiotics. The meat from our pastured cattle is 4 times higher in vitamin E than meat from feedlot cattle, and cooks faster as well.
Our cows have wide open space in which to graze and breed, and remain all-natural and healthy, all year long. One of our knowledgeable staff members will answer your questions anytime. Remember Me. Log in.
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